I was captivated by Sáo Jorge from the moment it appeared in the dusky blue, beneath the propellers of my SATA inter-island flight. Having soared into thick cloud over Ponta Delgada in the afternoon, I was abuzz for the next stage of our adventure. As the tiny plane dipped towards Sáo Jorge, it was bathed in glorious sunlight. Beaming from ear to ear, I stepped from the plane and gazed in awe at Pico, with a delicate collar of clouds, right there on the horizon. Gathering myself, I whisked through the tiny terminal and out into warm sunshine. The bubble burst momentarily, when I found that the pre-ordered taxi to our hotel was nowhere in sight. Panic swept in as I fumbled through my papers, seeking address/phone number, but they’re kind folk, these islanders. In no time, a replacement had been found, and we were climbing the hillside around the…
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