Clear, deep blue eyes in a tanned face, and dark hair, our guide for the day, Velomar Carváo, couldn’t be anything but an Azorean. He was waiting for us at the little agency we found, by the waterfront at Horta, a gentle smile lighting those intelligent eyes. We hadn’t known what to expect, but were treated to a personal tour of a very beautiful and beguiling island. First stop, the ferry terminal, and a small inter-island ferry.
We went ‘up top’ and he went inside, and we basked in glorious sunshine. Out in the bay we picked up the breeze and the boat bobbed and rolled, riding the waves triumphantly. ‘Are you sailors?’ asked Velomar, as we disembarked. There’s always a strong current between the islands. We had kept our gaze firmly on the horizon, scanning for those still elusive whales.
Into a hire car, we swiftly left the little…
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