One Monday morning, earlier this year, I was wandering in the sleepy back streets of Sáo Brás de Alportel. In a ruin mostly used for car parking I stopped to examine the remnants of old photos pasted onto the walls. This is a town rich in tradition, where paper flowers are liberally used to decorate the streets at Easter time. The scenes feature a quiet nearby street, the bombeiros or fire brigade, a local dance, and a lorry load of cork. A museum in the town is dedicated to the cork industry, and piles of cork can often be seen drying in the surrounding hills. The use of Monochrome can make a scene look ancient, but in Sáo Brás the past never seems very far away.
Until the council decided a change of image was needed. New fountains on slick marble squares, and metal animal sculptures now grace the centre…
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